Here is my problem. I get the bottom bracket in the bike. I don't have enough threads left to put the ring and the locking nut. Anybody have any suggestions. If I can get the race off on the drive side and unscrew a couple turns will this give me more threads on the non drive side.
Do both races go on the same way and tighten the same direction? Login Log In Sign Up. Bottom bracket bearing installation? The common three piece crankset has left and right arms with the bearing and spindle integrated.
The right-side drive-side thread is a left-hand thread, which tightens counterclockwise and loosen clockwise. The less common Italian has both left and right sides with right-hand threading. Both sides tighten clockwise and loosen counterclockwise. Begin by removing both cranks. Inspect the threaded cups for tool fittings. There are many different designs and tool options. Mind the chainring during the process. The second method uses First Components H press-fit adapter.
You install the BSA compatible adapter into the bottom bracket shell, then install a cartridge bottom bracket in the adapter.
Check out the post on Bottom Bracket Conversion Kits. You screw bearing rings onto the spindle thread, one on each side. Each bearing cage rests against each bearing; the bearings rest against the bearing cups functioning as a bearing race. Tightening the bearing rings holds the assemblage together and holds the bearings firmly against the race. Adequately greased and maintained, these bearings will give years of reliable service.
Then screw the bearing ring onto the spindle. Give the bearing cups a wipe to clear any old grease and dirt away. These bearing cups are in very good condition so, although the bearing kit comes with new cups, there is no need to remove the old and install the new.
Having cleaned the cups, apply a new coat of grease. Apply plenty of grease to the bearing. Push the grease into the gap between the bearing cage and each bearing. Grease the bearing ring you attached to the spindle earlier. You should also grease the left, non-drive side bearing ring along with the spindle thread on that side. Install the spindle with the bearing ring into the drive side. Install the left bearing ring onto the spindle. Then begin to tighten it against the bearing. Getting the balance between tightness and looseness here is important.
If the ring is too tight, the bearing along with the spindle will not rotate freely. If the ring is too loose there will be movement. A loose crank will place more stress on the bearings, causing premature wear. It will, minimally, be noisy to ride. You can possibly get it right just using your hand. Best, though, to fine-tune the tightness using the crescent wrench. Make sure.
Washer and locknut installation completes the whole procedure. Tightening the lock ring with a crescent wrench takes two wrenches. Or the correctly sized open-end wrenches. One wrench anchors the drive-side bearing ring. The non-drive side wrench tightens the lock ring against the washer. Ideally you would have a cone or headset spanner able to slot onto the bearing ring hexagon on the very inside holding it in place. Nevertheless you can get the locknut firmly secured with this method.
Regularly checking the crank and locknut for any looseness or play is a good habit to develop, by the way. Slip the crank onto the spindle. The crank bolts screw onto, not into as with a cartridge bottom bracket , the spindle.
A 14 mm socket used with a socket wrench will get the bolts tight. Better still is a torque wrench set at around 48 Nm. The bolts are unlikely to loosen at this setting. Nevertheless, periodically check these bolts for any signs they might be working loose. It is basically small copper particles suspended in grease.
Home Shop Tech articles Installation instructions Gallery. Helium Bottom Bracket Installation. Crank Installation Tighten crank arms using 8mm titanium crank bolts with greased threads. Installation instructions.
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